Contemporary Refractions of Sustainability in Artistic Research at the University of Art and Design from Cluj-Napoca

It is beyond any doubt that one of the most talked-about concepts in fashion today is sustainability. However, sustainability is not merely a fashion-related concept or a current trend; it has become a universal value transcending various fields of research, including art, science, business, and industry. As the challenges of a consumerist society have become more apparent in recent decades, it is not enough for a single field to address this issue alone. Research on sustainability must be approached from multiple perspectives—not only in fashion but also through interdisciplinary and transdisciplinary lenses. One domain where this interdisciplinary and transdisciplinary approach intersects with sustainability is higher art education.

This article aims to highlight some ways in which the concept of sustainability impacts higher art education at the University of Art and Design from Cluj-Napoca, Romania (UAD). We invite readers on a brief journey through recent developments that showcase how the value of sustainability has guided artistic research across disciplines at the university, focusing on four interdisciplinary projects spearheaded by UAD researchers.

The first stop on this journey is an introductory exhibition held at Galeria Casa Matei in Cluj-Napoca, which showcased visual research by artists, researchers, and educators from UAD. The main selection criteria for the exhibited works were their alignment with three intersecting principles: contemporary relevance, timelessness, and sustainability. This exhibition also celebrated the transnational meeting of the FEA-VEE partners. In the project, the University of Art and Design serves as a leading partner in WP4, focusing on curriculum development and training materials for students, graduates, and educators in sustainable fashion. An interdisciplinary team of UAD experts guided the development of ten modules covering topics such as sustainable fashion design tools, jewelry and accessory design, and sustainable materials and processes in fashion showcasing.

Photo credit: UAD

Another interdisciplinary research project driven by a commitment to sustainability in visual arts and education is titled The BioArt Circle. This transdisciplinary research initiative is a collaboration between UAD professors from the Department of Ceramic, Glass, and Metal, and Professor Corina Cătană, coordinator of the Center for Biodiversity at the University of Agricultural Sciences and Veterinary Medicine Cluj-Napoca (USAMV). Among the main topics addressed by this project is the development of bio-based art objects and installations that raise awareness about the importance of biodiversity. Two recent initiatives within this project—Sub Vitrum and Nature (In)visible—involved research and exhibitions of results. Students, under guidance, studied natural materials in the Biodiversity Center laboratory, using scientific tools and procedures. In Nature (In)visible, students conducted extensive research into the plant diversity of the Petriș region in Arad, which inspired a series of objects made from recycled glass.

Photo credit: UAD

The next stop in our journey returns to the realm of fashion. The following project addresses one of the major challenges facing the fashion industry today: the problem of deadstock—excess clothing and leftover textile materials. As an educational institution preparing students to enter the fashion industry, it is crucial for UAD to make future graduates aware of these challenges and equip them with the skills to address them creatively. UAD professors from the Fashion Department have incorporated deadstock-related topics into the curriculum, transforming recycling and upcycling into educational tools. The modules developed through the FEA-VEE program have played a significant role in educating students on sustainable practices that can enhance the sustainability of their artistic practices and future businesses. Students were encouraged to develop their own projects and collections using recycled materials, creatively transforming discarded textiles into new, contemporary pieces of clothing and bold collections.

One recent success story is the Color Blocking collection, a project created by second-year BA students (ages 23-24) under the guidance of Lecturer Dr. Anca Luiza Zaharia, who also gradually introduced students to the visual and theoretical research within WP4 of the FEA-VEE project. This collection explores avant-garde techniques for generating volume through the combination of three geometric shapes: circle, square, and equilateral triangle. The Color Blocking technique involves pairing solid, distinct color blocks to create a vibrant, dynamic look. In the context of sustainability, this approach was paired with the use of deadstock materials—unused fabric remnants from production. This combination not only enhances the visual appeal of each garment but also promotes creativity in outfit styling.

Photo credit: TFF and UAD

This collection was presented at two significant fashion events: The International Fashion Festival Transilvania Fashion and City Fashion Kids – Iullius Mall. It was also exhibited at the UAD Semester Exhibition.

We conclude our journey into the realm of art education and sustainability by noting that the projects highlighted in this article represent only a small part of a broader palette of practices and educational tools that professors and educators at UAD have adopted and developed. These initiatives are designed not only to address sustainability but are also part of a larger strategy of the University to tackle pressing environmental and social issues. By preparing future generations of students to make informed and mindful choices in their roles as artists, fashion and product designers, and business owners, UAD empowers them to drive positive change rather than perpetuate existing challenges.